FAQs

Optimum storage for a sleeping bag is to store laying flat or hanging in a dry, temperature controlled environment. Don’t store your bag in an attic, garage, or damp basement! Synthetic insulation can be damaged and down insulation can lose its loft if compressed too tightly during extended storage. That is why your Big Agnes bag comes with a cotton storage sack. If you don’t have an area to lay or hang your bag it is okay to store it in the provided storage sack.

If it has been a while since you have taken your down bag out of the sack it is a good idea to hang it for a few hours and lay it out overnight. This will help restore the loft. If you feel your down bag has lost a little loft you can put it in a dryer on medium heat for 15 minutes. Remove the bag and shake it out. Hang or lay out the bag and allow it to loft for an hour.

Be sure to take any bag out of its storage sack every so often and give it some fresh air to prevent mildew. This is especially true if you live in a damp or humid environment. Mildew is not covered under warranty.

You should only wash a sleeping bag when it needs it because it is dirty or stinky. Avoid washing your bag more than necessary.

Please see our Sleeping Bag Care Instructions

While there are no bags that are made to function only as overbags we have highlighted some common choices on our Overbags page. The overbags we typically recommend are used as warm weather bags on their own and can add from 15°to 30° to your main bag’s rating. The key to choosing an overbag is decide on the combined temperature you are trying to achieve as well as other considerations such as weight and compressed size.

A good way to implement the overbag system is to start with a good 3-season bag. For this example let’s use the Mystic SL 15°. This bag is suitable for camping between 15° and 50°. Next add an overbag which can be used on its own for summertime weekend shots and paired with the Mystic for the for backcountry sessions in the winter. In this case the Yampa 40° is a great choice. At less than 2lbs for the regular length, the hoodless Yampa is a lightweight and comfortable choice for summer nights. Add a Yampa to a Mystic and you get a bag combo that is lofty enough to keep you warm when the thermometer dips below 0° and can still pack together in single compression sack.

Another popular overbag is the waterproof Nugget 45°. This lightly insulated bag works great as a shell. Good overbag for tarp campers.

First you need to be sure that the bags have the same size zipper and that one bag is a left-zip and one a right-zip. You can find the zipper size of our current bags listed on the detail page for each bag. If you have an older model please contact us to confirm the zipper size.

After you have determined that you have compatible bags, follow our Zip Together Instructions.

When two bags are zipped together there is a large opening at the head of the bag. The opening cannot be cinched down as it can be in a single bag and it allows more heat to escape from the bag. Because of this two bags zipped together will not be rated as warm as a bag on its own. For example, two 15° bags zipped together would no longer be warm enough at 15°. It is important to consider how each person sleeps (cold sleeper vs. warm sleeper) and the expected low temperatures before deciding to zip bags together.

Every Big Agnes tent has all necessary seams taped using PVC-free and solvent free seam tape. The seam tape along with the waterproof coatings on the floor and fly of the tents ensure Big Agnes tents are waterproof right out of the stuff sack. There is no need to apply any seam sealant to a new tent. If after a few seasons of hard use you notice water coming through a seam, we recommend spot sealing with Seam Grip by McNett. Under very rare circumstances is it necessary to re-seal every seam on a Big Agnes tent.

Improper seam sealing by a tent owner is not covered under warranty.

Guy lines provide stability to the pole structure and are important to use every time you pitch your tent. While it may not seem windy when you set up camp, you never know what the weather may do during the night. Guy lines are most effective when staked directly into the wind. Often times you can attach lines to the stakes you used on the tent body. You can also attach multiple guy lines to a single stake.

This document shows how to properly use the plastic tensioner on the guy lines. It also gives an example of attaching the three guy lines at the head of a Copper Spur tent to a single stake.

Take care when storing your tent for a long period. Store gear in a dry, temperature controlled environment. Never store gear in a garage or attic! These areas have large fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Optimum storage is to drape the tent fly and body in a room or closet. If this is not possible roll or stuff your tent in the storage sack. It is recommended that you pull your tent out of the sack and lay it out (you don’t need to pitch it) every 3 to 4 months when not in use. This will help prevent mildew and other damage to the coated materials.

Always store your tent clean and dry.

Start by gently shaking out your tent. Never pick up a pitched tent by the poles. Instead, breakdown your tent and unzip the door on your tent body and turn the body inside out. Gently shake out debris.

Use a toothbrush or similar and remove dirt and grit from all zippers on body and fly.

If there is pine pitch or other buildup on the tent body or fly spot treat with warm water and a purpose specific soap such as Tech Wash by Nikwax. Rinse with water and let dry. If needed you can also soak the tent in warm water and Tech Wash, gently hand wash, rinse thoroughly, and dry.

No. There is different hardware (such as buckles) used on the different tents. In some cases the shape and pole configuration of a standard Seedhouse and the corresponding Seedhouse SL are different. Be sure to get accessories specifically designed for the tent you own.

No. The Emerald Mountain has a rainfly that is specifically designed to work with the accessory vestibule. The Copper Spur is made to be the lightest tent with the volume it offers and so does not have a rainfly that works with an accessory vestibule. Again, always look for accessories that are designed for the tent you are interested in.

Bent a stake or tripped over a guyline? No problem, you can order parts directly from us. Contact us by email or phone and we’ll help you out.

Replacements for major tent parts (i.e. body, fly, and poles) can be ordered but only to replace gear you already own. We offer this service only to customers who have lost or damaged their gear. We can only sell replacement pieces for the tent you own. Tent parts are not offered separately for general sale. Contact us for pricing.

The EZ Flate Valve has a two-piece plastic cap. The upper portion of the cap is grey and spins freely whether the valve is open or closed. This piece allows you to hold the valve in your mouth while inflating and screwing the valve shut without the assembly spinning in your mouth. The large black plastic is unscrewed to open the valve and screwed tight to close the valve.

The first thing you want to do is test the pad and see if you can find a leak. This is done by inflating the pad and submerging it in a tub of water (a bathtub or swimming pool works well). It is important to put ample pressure on the pad so air is forced through a leak if there is one. Fold your fully inflated pad in half (so a 72” pad becomes 36”). Now fold the top half back on itself creating a “z” shape on one half. Submerge the unfolded half of the pad under water. Lean on the folded half with your elbow and check for any streams of bubbles. You will need to unfold and refold to check the head and foot of the pad as well as the top side and bottom side.

If you find a small puncture (identified by a single steady stream of bubbles) mark it with a piece of chalk or crayon. Let the pad dry and then deflate it. Dab a drop of glue from your repair kit directly over the puncture; you do not need to use a fabric patch unless you have a slice in your pad. Allow the glue to dry (typically 3 hours). Test your pad by inflating it and either sleeping on it or putting weight on it overnight (stacks of books or sandbags work well).

If you are unable to find the source of the leak or are not sure how to repair it please fill out our return form, and send it in with your pad. We will repair or replace any pad with warranty damage free of charge. Non-warranty damage is repaired for $10, which covers repair time, materials, and return shipping. International customers are responsible for actual shipping charges on non-warranty repairs. We will contact you if we find damage that is not covered under warranty. Punctures, slices, and burns are examples of damage not covered under warranty. Pads with mold damage are not covered under warranty and cannot be repaired. If you have a pad with mold damage please contact us.