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Silence engulfs my surroundings. Rubber snap-crackle-pops to a halt. Here I am in South America, my fifth continent on a journey to cycle 18,000 miles on our planet. I assess my backyard for the night: 12,000 feet above sea level, high on the thin air of Bolivia’s Altiplano, on the crest of the Andes. When I started to pedal three years ago, I dreamt of this otherworldly landscape. Now here I am, spellbound by solitude, camping on the Earth’s largest salt flat.
The expansive abyss is as intoxicating as it is liberating– a feeling comparable to my years traveling by two-wheels solo. I’m unbound to any formula or rigid plans and free to roam in any direction, yet that power can at times be daunting. Yesterday I lost all form of GPS and had to resort to following old tire tracks left by overlanding vehicles. A lesson in trusting my instincts, I was forced to adapt and stay calm, all while attempting to navigate 10,000 square feet of an empty white salt canvas of salt. Long ago a prehistoric lake left behind these endless white crystals. I feel an inexplicable kinship with the Salar de Uyuni. Out here, I am completely alone.
Thousands of miles of wild camping alone has heightened my senses. My ears pick up the slightest noises– those usually unnoticed to the listener caught in a daze of constant noise. I’m beginning to understand that even the most insignificant of details can be the catalyst of awe and wonder. Melodies this morning are cued by the Salar’s grand maestro: the wind. Metal jingles against featherlite aluminum, and I realize it’s my bicycle chain lock tapping the pole it’s woven around. I find that tiny routines– such as locking my transportation vessel to my home at night– help my peace of mind as a solo female in the backcountry. Sensing a theme, it’s also the small moments that echo into eternity. The nanoscopic miracles are camouflaged to those in a hurry. But as with anything in life, take it with a grain of salt.
About the Author: McKenzie Barney is an adventurer, writer, filmmaker, and speaker who roams the world with no fixed address or vehicle. Mckenzie spent three years "cycling the world" through 28 countries and over 18,000 miles. He recent film "Cycling The World" is now available to watch.
